A suit begins with the cloth
A guide to the choices behind London tailoring, from the fibre to the finished silhouette.
View starting pricesCloth has its own vocabulary. Learn how weight, weave, colour and canvas can shape the character of a suit.
Read the cloth before the label
A swatch says more than its colour. Hold it up to the light, look closely at the weave and feel whether the surface is crisp, smooth or softly textured. Each quality contributes to the way a jacket hangs and how it feels throughout the day.
For a City wardrobe, consider how frequently the suit will be worn and the rooms or journeys it needs to handle. A celebration may offer room for a more expressive finish. See the cloth guide for a closer look.
What gives a jacket its shape?
Inside the front of a tailored jacket, canvas can support the chest and lapel. Full canvas extends through the jacket front; half canvas covers the upper section. Construction depends on the garment and specification offered.
The outer cloth, interlining and cut work together. Ask about the construction available for the fabric you select and how it relates to the style you want.
Personal choices, considered together
A lapel width, pocket style or lining can change the mood of the suit. Start with the whole outfit rather than choosing details one at a time: jacket, trousers, shirt and shoes should feel related.
Explore bespoke suits and made to measure suits in the City of London, near St Paul’s.
Experience behind the conversation
Sergio Barone brings 25 years of tailoring experience to conversations about fit, material and occasion. London’s tailoring history includes the craft of Savile Row; the showroom itself is in the City.
Whether the brief is a professional wardrobe or wedding tailoring, the discussion begins with the garment you need. Fabric availability and the final quotation depend on the selected specification.
Start with a clear brief
Note the date you need the suit, the setting and any favourite garments that show your preferred proportions. A shortlist of priorities can make it easier to compare choices without losing sight of how the suit will be used.
The price guide sets out four starting categories, while the fabric guide explains how to think about weave, finish and fibre fineness.
Explore the cloth.
Learn more about tailoring materials and choices.
The names behind the weave
The feel of a swatch is shaped by its fibres, the structure of its weave and the finish applied to it. Collections by Vitale Barberis Canonico, Carlo Barbera and Fratelli Tallia di Delfino offer points of reference for exploring the breadth of Italian suiting cloth.
Ermenegildo Zegna, Tollegno 1900, Marzotto and Finitura Felice sit alongside established cloth names such as Scabal and Holland & Sherry. Look at the individual fabric rather than the label alone: its texture and weight should suit the intended garment. Specific cloths are subject to availability.
Read the fabric guide →