How to read a suit fabric
A practical introduction to weave, weight, texture and wool fineness.
View starting pricesThe most useful cloth is the one that makes sense for the wearer and the occasion.
Begin with the season
A sample book contains many choices that can look similar at first. Begin by thinking about temperature, travel and how often the suit will come out of the wardrobe. Those answers narrow the field before colour enters the picture.
Handle the samples if possible: weight and surface feel are hard to judge from a photograph alone.
Follow the weave
Worsted wool often has a smooth, defined appearance. Textured constructions can add visual depth; a more open surface may feel different from a compact one. Examine the cloth in natural light as well as indoors.
Italian and British wool can be found in many finishes. Availability depends on the current selection.
Put the number in perspective
Super numbers relate to fibre fineness. They do not by themselves tell you whether a cloth is ideal for a daily commute, a summer event or a softer silhouette.
Ask how a sample relates to your intended use, then consider it alongside colour, weave and the overall specification.
Connect cloth to price
Our four starting categories provide a guide for discussing cloth. A final quotation depends on the chosen fabric and garment.
Keep a note of the qualities you value most: handle, appearance, seasonality and how often the suit will be worn.
Explore the cloth.
Learn more about tailoring materials and choices.